Food

Bolognese

A nutrient-dense take on the classic ragù

We’ve all been there. A haircut so dire you leave the salon in quiet disbelief, thinking: how did it get this bad this quickly?

Mine was The Great Wolf Cut of Spring 2025. Every possible layer, on every strand. This isn’t a verdict on wolf cuts — they simply aren’t of my essence. And as someone who takes a real hobby in looking in the mirror, I needed a solution. There’s no joy in covering the glass that looks back at you.

So I took matters into my own hands and set out to grow it back. Beyond a whole-foods way of eating, my nutritionist pointed me toward liver. The shiver that went down my spine… it’s one of the few flavors I cannot get behind. If I’m eating liver, I prefer not to know.

That quest led me to a Bolognese inspired by the great Elizabeth David. Simple, deeply satisfying, and will prompt faster growth for curtain bangs than any Rogaine or Nutrafol.

As always, simple food comes down to sourcing. Show yourself that love and spend where it matters.

Serves 4.

Ingredients

3 oz pancetta, finely chopped
8 oz ground beef or meatball mix (I prefer beef, pork, and veal for deeper flavor — any good meat counter should have it)
4 oz chicken livers, blended smooth (I blend them with a splash of beef stock so the liver stays in stealth mode)
1 medium white onion, finely diced
1 medium carrot, finely diced
1 stalk celery, finely diced
1 tbsp butter
3 tbsp concentrated tomato paste
¾ cup dry white wine
1¼ cups beef stock
¼ tsp freshly grated nutmeg (non-negotiable)
½ cup whole milk or heavy cream
1¼ lbs fresh tagliatelle
Fresh Parmesan, to serve

Method

1.Brown the pancetta in a wide, heavy pan (a Dutch oven is ideal). Take your time — real color means deeper flavor.
2.Add the onion, carrot, and celery. Cook slowly until soft, about 10 minutes.
3.Add the ground meat. Break it up and cook until deeply browned.
4.Stir in the blended chicken livers and cook about 3 minutes.
5.Add the tomato paste, then the wine. Scrape up anything stuck to the bottom and let the wine reduce by half.
6.Season with salt, pepper, and the nutmeg (about 10 passes on a Microplane). Add the stock.
7.Cover and simmer gently for 45 minutes to 1 hour. Longer is better.
8.Stir in the cream.
9.Toss with tagliatelle and a knob of butter. Finish with plenty of freshly grated Parmesan.

Here’s to putting down the minoxidil and picking up your fork.